The History of Fabergé

The History of Fabergé- why the Egg came first

Fabergé is a name that has become part of the history of the world of jewellery. For those of us who watch the Antiques Roadshow, the smile and knowing look when the expert sees the all-important mark of the House of Fabergé always heightens our expectations. It is an amazing story of beauty, finesse, craftsmanship, royalty and revolution. 

 

The Origins

The story begins with Gustav Fabergé, a descendant of the Huguenots, an unremarkable jeweller residing in St Petersburg, Russia, in the middle of the 19th Century. However, the birth of his first son, Peter Carl Fabergé in 1846 sets in motion the ascent of arguably the most famous and remarkable name in the history of jewellery and its related arts. 

 
Gustav Fabergé



Peter Carl Fabergé

 

For Peter Carl Fabergé, taking the ordinary and making it extraordinary was his raison d’etre. From a simple photo frame to a bell pull, each mundane household item was given the Fabergé makeover to create art from functional items. He called them objets de fantaisie. Gone were the heavy baroque, diamond-laden designs of the early 19th century, and ushered in were designs that weren’t ‘flashy’ but showed the exquisite skill of the artisan.

Instead of relying on lots of large gemstones, which were increasingly regarded as ostentatious and inelegant, Fabergé incorporated enamel, inexpensive quartz and chalcedony, choosing the skill of the craftsman to shine above everything else. 



An egg fit for a Tsar

As the company grew and accolades and awards were won, Fabergé came to the attention of Tsar Alexander III. In 1885, the Tsar commissioned a surprise for the Empress for Easter, the first Fabergé Egg, the Hen Egg. A simple affair of a white enamel egg that opened with a twist to reveal a gold hen holding a pendant in the shape of the Imperial Crown. 


The Hen Egg, 1885.commissioned by Tsar Alexander III.

This unpretentious gift earnt Fabergé the title of ‘Goldsmith by Special Appointment to the Imperial Crown’. And set in motion a tradition that was carried on by Tsar Nicholas II until 1916. The Eggs became more and more extraordinary, allowing imaginations to overflow.

The Tsars commissioned the pieces but allowed Fabergé and his designers free reign to create whatever they wished, to the point that the Tsar himself had no idea what was going to be presented. 



Royal Patronage

The relationship between the Russian Royal Family and Fabergé was such that there was a dedicated room at the Winter Palace, the main residence of the royal family. In effect, it was a small showroom for the Family to choose gifts for visiting dignitaries and friends. 

 

Royal patronage brought huge growth to the firm. Aristocratic and growing Bourgeoise classes aspired to own a piece of Fabergé, however small. The workshop was moved to larger premises, bringing most of the workshops under one roof, with a design studio and showroom.

 
The workshops and apprentices learning such an intricate craft.

Further workshops and showrooms were established in Moscow, Kyiv, Odessa and London. By 1900 the company was at its zenith, employing 500 craftsmen and designers, overseen by workmasters and managers. No piece was signed unless it came up to the exacting standards demanded by the individual workmasters.



Unsurpassed craftsmanship 

However, it is curious that no piece of Fabergé is known to be from Carl Fabergé’s own hand. He was instrumental in the design of many of the Royal pieces, but it has to be assumed that the size and demands of the business kept him from sitting at the jewellery bench. 


The Coronation Egg, presented by the Emperor Nicholas II to his wife the Empress Alexandra Fedorovna on Easter Day 1897.

As a shrewd and successful businessman, Fabergé used his workmasters to control the quality of each level of the workshops, which allowed Fabergé himself to schmooze the clients and extend his influence beyond Russia into Europe and as far as America and Siam.


Unusual animal intricate carved hardstone in the shape of animals.

Eggs were a prestigious commission, but only a small part of the firm's activities. His showroom in St Petersburg was a destination for Russia's elite and his meticulously intricate, innovative, and magnificent pieces were perfect for gifting. Fabergé made everything from carved hardstone figures of animals to cigar cutters, and tiaras to letter openers.



The fall of the House of Fabergé

The fall of the business was beyond the control of Fabergé and his sons. The arrival of WWI took its toll, with no place for trinkets, and the need for functional production of small arms for the front, cigarette cases and ashtrays in copper or gunmetal, saw the Fabergé workshops churn out the mundane, free of ornamentation, save for the Russian Eagle.

  
Alongside military equipment during WWI Faberge crafted cups, bowls and cigarett cases made from copper or gunmetal.

But the final nail was, of course, the Russian Revolution, which saw Carl Fabergé leave Russia on the last train out of St Petersburg, settling finally in Switzerland with the rest of his family, where he died in 1920. 



The lost Fabergé eggs

Fabergé’s history is inextricably linked to the Imperial Eggs. Of the 50 eggs that were made for the Russian Royal Family, some were smuggled out of Russia when the revolution came; some were sold by the new regime, “treasures into tractors”.

Forty-two eggs made their way into private and public collections, and 8 remained lost until 2015 when a chancer from the American MidWest hoped to turn a quick buck and bought a pretty gold ornament but overestimated its scrap value.

Unable to get a return on his $14,000 investment and to begin to rue the day he had bought the gold objet d’art, he typed ‘Egg Vacheron Constantin’ (the name on the dial of the watch movement) into Google. And realised that far from being a burden, this egg was about to make him his fortune. 

 
The Third Imperial Egg, crafted for Tasr Alexander III for his wife in 1887.

On a quick trip to London, he visited Fabergé experts, Wartski’s, with pictures of his priceless scrap gold find. And so, the third Fabergé egg, from Tsar Alexander III to his wife in 1887, was rediscovered and sold to a private collector for the princely sum of $33,000,000.

There are still 7 unaccounted for, although it is thought that 5 were destroyed, so 2 potentially to find. So, when you go to a car boot sale or pass the charity shop window, have a quick look, you never know!



Fabergé returns to the world high-jewellery stage

Since the Revolution, the name of Fabergé has had a tumultuous time. A name synonymous with luxury and craftsmanship was used to sell perfume, general household cleaners, and even toilet cleaners.

But in 1990, when a generations-old jewellery company, Victor Mayer GmbH, became the official workmaster, the art of the jewellery of Fabergé was resurrected. 

Using traditional techniques in jewellery making, engraving, enamelling and creating objet d’art, Fabergé has gone from strength to strength, with the Fabergé Heritage Council being created in 2007 to uphold the values and excellence long associated with Fabergé. 



Old meets new

This new chapter in the history of Fabergé has seen new styles and desires, keeping to the spirit of exquisite workmanship and opulence. 

 
Images from The Big Egg Hunt in 2012. Giant eggs were decorated by many famous brands and faces.

From the launch of the Big Egg Hunt in 2012, raising $1.5 million for Action for Children and the Elephant Family charities, with giant eggs decorated by the likes of Vivienne Westwood, to becoming part of Gemfields, the world’s leading supplier of responsibly sourced coloured gemstones, Fabergé has returned to the jewellery stage as the pinnacle of fine craftsmanship.

Taking inspiration from its rich history, Fabergé today creates pieces that convey breathtaking individuality when worn. With a vision to introduce a new era of enchanting and lasting gifts to contemporary connoisseurs, Fabergé celebrates the concept of the artist-jeweller in today's world of luxury.



Fabergé’s handcrafted jewellery at Lumbers

Lumbers is delighted to be a part of the Fabergé story, offering this historic and bespoke jewellery to a new generation of lovers of jewellery. Giving a gift that will be treasured for generations. See the collection online, or visit our store in Leicester.