July Birthstone: Ruby

Ruby: Corundum made of aluminium oxide with chromium, or iron. It is not only the birthstone for July but also the anniversary stone for 40 years of marriage.

Rubies form in the trigonal growth structure. However, most rough stones are tabular and can be quite flat, resulting in shallow depth stones. Rubies with a higher specific gravity than diamond means that an equivalent 1 Carat Ruby, to 1 Carat Diamond will appear smaller due to its higher density.

Corundum only forms under very specific conditions, with the right temperature, pressure, and only in an environment with low silicon content. The purest form of corundum is colourless. With a corundum hardness of 9 on Mhos hardness scale, these are excellent stones for everyday wear.

Chromium or iron are the colour causing elements which form Rubies. It doesn’t matter which element, but the greater the content, the stronger the red colour becomes. With chromium as the colour causing element this can also result in red fluorescence, which adds to the colours intensity. This can almost resemble a glowing coal ember in a fire when exposed to light.

The finest Rubies form typically in marble deposits. Like those from Myanmar, Afghanistan and Northern Vietnam. This is a result of a metamorphic process, whereby intense heat and pressure turn limestone into marble. These stones are called “marble hosted” by gemmologists. Some Ruby deposits, such as those in Thailand & Cambodia form within alkali-basalt host rocks. These Rubies have higher levels of iron as the colour causing trace element. This iron content however inhibits fluorescence, so even though the hue of basalt-hosted stones is excellent, they won’t have the fluorescence of their marble hosted siblings. Also, its key to note that iron-rich Rubies often appear darker.

IS IT RED OR IS IT PINK?

Some dealers still debate on this age-old question. If the hue is strong in a stone but with a predominant pink or orange colour, it should have a description of being a Pink/Orange Sapphire. For gem laboratories to consistently identify corundum as Ruby, they use master stones for comparison, studying individual stones in both standardised daylight equivalent lighting, and incandescent lighting.

The mixture of these untreated and heat-treated rubies show a range of darker and brighter red colours. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Tommy Wu, Shire Trading Ltd., Hong Kong

The principal is that red must be the dominant hue, with the proper tone and saturation of colour before a stone can be called Ruby. On the gemstone colour wheel, the designation for Ruby’s hue range runs from strong purplish red, through slightly purplish-red, red, to orangish red. Top quality stones have a medium to dark tone and strong to vivid saturation, while commercial quality stones feature dark tones and low saturation.

Finest Burmese Rubies, a trade term, often used to described stones with colours akin to “pigeon’s blood”. Rubies which possess a red to slightly purplish red hue with vivid saturation and medium to dark tone, often will contain minute inclusions that give their colour characteristic softness. Trade terms like this should only be used to describe stones after they have been proven and clarified by a lab to describe this as a country of origin. The presence of the many natural characteristics found in Rubies can help determine a country of origin but must always be confirmed by a lab, especially if the country of origin is important to the buyer.

TREATED VS UNTREATED

With colour being the biggest influence for buying a Ruby or any other coloured stone, one should also note that almost all Rubies like many other gemstones of the world are subjected to heat treatment. In fact, stones that don’t require heat treatment are extremely rare and as such these stones can command much higher prices. This process is considered a standard for almost all but the highest of quality stones.

This process has been used to treat stones since the earliest of times to develop or intensify colour, remove, or decrease colour zoning, or reduce modifying hues. This process can be conducted simply by packing stones in a crucible with sand, then placing over an open fire or even in similar containers in a highly controlled kiln. It’s important to expect most stones to have had this treatment unless disclosed otherwise. As always, if this is a key element in your purchase, gain confirmation from a lab report and anticipate a high premium for untreated stones.

As with all natural gems, Rubies very often have characteristics trapped within them as these gems form in the earth along with their colour causing chromium or iron. Expect imperfections within stones. If you see a stone with no imperfections and a colour saturation completely even throughout; plus an affordable price, these could well be synthetic in origin and grown in laboratories. These can sometimes be sold as lab-created or cultured, they should however be disclosed and sold as synthetic.

Please remember Rubies especially when untreated, can command the highest per-carat price of all coloured stones. So as the old tale goes; if something seems too good to be true, it usually is!

CELEBRITY STYLE

Its all about choosing the stone which suits you. From the deep pigeon’s blood all the way to the slightly pink hues. There is something for every style and taste. Even celebrities cannot resist these stunning gemstones. If you are still stuck for choice, we have a selection of celebrity styles we love that you can take inspiration from…

TAYLOR SWIFT

We have dived back into the archives for this one! Taylor Swift at the 2014 Golden Globes wows with her Ruby Jewellery. Her dress was two-toned Carolina Herrera piece which complimented her red jewels perfectly. The jewellery was all about layered glamour, featuring rubies and diamonds on her ears and fingers.

If you love this style then you might love our 18ct Gold Ruby & Diamond Bombe Pave Ring. It’s a unusual, modern and glamourous piece which could be worn alone or layers with other jewels. 7 oval rubies equate to 1.71cts and 56 brilliant cut diamonds equate to 3.20cts!

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EVA LONGORIA

Eva Longoria's now-husband, José Antonio Bastón, proposed in 2015 among the Dubai sand dunes with a ruby ring fit for a desert queen. This ring is truly stunning with a central ruby surrounded by a halo of diamonds, a classic and timeless choice while remaining fun and modern. The gemstone engagement ring is still well on trend (think Kate Middleton).

If you love this then we think you will love this slightly contemporary 18ct Gold Ruby & Diamond Halo Ring. A 1.17ct round central Ruby sits pride of place while a halo of 0.43cts surrounds the stone and extends down into the shoulders.

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VICTORIA BECKHAM

You may or may not be aware that Victoria Beckham has an incredible collection of engagement rings (yes, I said engagement rings!). In 2009 David Beckham gave Victoria her ninth engagement ring, an oval cut Ruby mounted in a white Diamond setting. The ring is stunning, bold and vibrant; a talking piece that would make an entire outfit.

We love this 18ct Gold Rubelite, Ruby & Diamond Cluster Ring. It is huge and really packs a punch in the style stakes. The centre stone is a 8.50ct Rubelite which makes this ring much more affordable. There are 4 pear cut and 4 oval cut Rubies equating to 1.57cts. 8 Marquise and 52 round brilliant cut Diamonds (1.35cts) make this ring complete.

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JESSICA SIMPSON

Jessica Simpson’s engagement ring from Eric Johnson is truly stunning. It’s a gorgeous non-traditional vintage engagement ring which features a 5 carat Ruby centre stone with diamond either side. Ruby is Jessica’s Birthstone, so if you’re thinking about proposing and your partner loved the idea of a gemstone ring, this might be the perfect choice.

We have this Pre-Owned ring which we think you would love. Pre-owned gives you incredible value for money, and here at Lumbers we clean and inspect every piece of jewellery before sale. This ring is 18ct Gold and features a Ruby centre stone with brilliant cut diamonds (1.01cts total) either side. A stunning combination.

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FEELING ROYAL?

Royalty have been wearing Rubies for hundreds of years. In fact, Her Majesty The Queen has sported a collection of Rubies and Diamond fit for… well a Queen!
There is no secret that Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge favours beautiful gemstones. Kate’s day to day jewellery is stunning yet affordable wearing jewellery from brands such as Monica Vinader, Accessorize and Missoma. She does however have some staple and timeless jewellery as part of her collection seen below.

The Queen has a huge combination of jewellery, some of which were inherited and some which were gifted. This particular collection is in the traditional cluster styling. Where the Ruby is central to the piece and surrounded by sparkling diamonds. The Crown Ruby Necklace seen here was originally designed by prince Albert for Queen Victoria, it was inherited by the Queen after her mother’s death in 2002.

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN

Lets face it although incredibly stunning we wouldn’t be able to go to work dressed up in these beautiful jewels. With that in mind we think this beautiful ring captures the elegance and style of the Queen. Crafted from 18ct Gold and featuring a central oval 1.05ct Ruby, surrounded by 10 shimmering diamonds which equate to 0.70cts. This ring is truly stunning and will be a timeless piece of jewellery that can be passed down through the family.

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We can’t deny that Kate Middleton is the epitome of elegance. From the clothes she wears through to the jewellery she selects, she is the people’s princess just like her last mother-in-law. While the Duchess is no stranger to lavish jewellery, she rarely wears lots of pieces at once and will opt for high street pieces which are far more affordable.

KATE MIDDLETON

HRH The Duchess of Cambridge wore a suite of jewellery for this occasion. She wore a pair of Ruby and Diamond earrings, a Ruby Ring and this Ruby and Diamond necklace. Kate loves to wear matching pieces for special occasions, and this is a perfect example.

If you love Kates classic style but want that extra modern-day twist, we think you will love this 18ct Gold Ruby and Diamond Pear Necklace. The pear shape adds to the modern elements which the gemstones are all in keeping with her beautiful an elegant style.

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If you need any help or guidance on choosing the perfect piece of jewellery, whether that be Ruby or any other gemstone; we can help! We have a team of experts who can help guide you through the process. If you don’t live local or are further afield, you can give us a call and book in for a virtual appointment. We can show you our stunning jewellery over Zoom, Whatsapp, FaceTime, or any other medium you would prefer. If you are local and can visit us, then please visit us in store and we can give you the full Lumbers experience. Maybe you know exactly what you want and have found it on the website? Go ahead and buy online, if it is a ring that needs resizing, we can do that for you. We have an award-winning onsite workshop; you just need to tell us the size! In addition, all our online orders are gift wrapped as standard and sent Royal Mail Special Delivery for piece of mind. That means if you order before 2pm, your item will arrive the vey next day before 1pm.

Happy Shopping!